WELCOME TO PRAGUE, TOUR OF THE CITY
Approaching the city from the air, over the sharp bends of the Vltava, the majestic and austere beauty of Prague appears with the bell towers, spires and buildings which have given it the deserved title of "Paris of the East". The city stands out like a precious stone set in the green surroundings of the gentle hills of Bohemia.
But once one has landed in the modern, functional Ruzyne Airport and arrived in the city after a transfer of about 20km, there is no more time for reflection. What remains instead is the difficult task of choosing between the many attractions on offer in "The Golden City". Prague is undoubtedly a fascinating city, although rich in striking contrasts: the central areas are those subjected to the incessant pressure of tourists, from the inevitable Japanese, the tireless Germans, the innumerable Spanish and English, to the Italians, as noisy and easily identifiable as ever. These quarters make it easy to see why Prague is often compared to Vienna, Paris or London, thanks to the elegant shops and nightclubs, first-class restaurants and hotels, the tidy, clean streets, and the punctual and efficient public transport system (even though both its visual and spoken indications are all in Czech). In this melting pot of languages, cultures and nationalities Prague has what it takes to compete with the ability and confidence of the most advanced Central European and Western metropolises.
A tour round the quarters of Prague might begin at the citadel of Hradcany with its Castle, its monumental buildings, the Loreto shrine and the Strahov Monastery. This is one of the highest quarters in Prague and the views it offers over Mala Strana and Stare Mesto are some of the most charming and eloquent in the city.
Descending from the Castle, beyond the Nerudova, lies the picturesque quarter of Mala Strana. Here we find various austere buildings (mainly the home to embassies), imposing Baroque churches, and an important attraction for the faithful, the "Holy Infant of Prague", kept in the Church of Our Lady Victorious. The wooded hill of Petrin, with its numerous attractions, is one of the capital's greenest areas. Characteristic of this quarter are the ever-present craft workshops and the "vinarny" with their attractive and imaginative signs.
Beyond Charles Bridge, with its emblematic statues, throngs of tourists, jugglers and vendors, lies Stare Mesto, the "Old Town", with its magical, alluring atmosphere and its treasures of art, history and architecture. The narrow streets, bursting with people and lined with shops selling souvenirs and local products, lead invariably to the architectural jewel of Staromestske namesti, a theatrical composition of buildings, churches and monuments in an incredible hubbub of tourists, horse-drawn carriages and orderly market stalls.
To the north of this square, one of Prague's main attractions, lies the Josefov quarter. This is the Jewish area, one of the most charming parts of the capital, with its Ghetto, Jewish museum, synagogues, cemetery and the ancient memories of a people and culture which survived centuries of persecution.
Wandering from Staromestske namesti towards the "Golden Cross" (the crossroads where the quarter's main thoroughfares meet), it is surprising to note the meticulous care and attention given to the ornamental detail of the buildings: splendid attics, tympanums, statues, stucco work, friezes and various other decorations enrich and refine the buildings' facades, transforming even an anonymous building into a small architectural masterpiece.
We are now in Na Prikope, near Wenceslas Square, the fulcrum and heart of modern Prague. Further south lies Nove Mesto, the "New Town", with its imposing Town Hall and enormous square named after King Charles. Majestic buildings, interesting churches and the legend of Dr Faust are all within the visitor's reach.
Last,but by no means least, the Vysehrad quarter is an obligatory stop for those wishing to really get to know the city. It is easily reached by underground, and not far from the station are some of the most recent architectural achievements in Prague's urban history (the Forum Hotel and the Palace of Culture). These exist side by side with one of the oldest settlements on the banks of the Vltava. Vysehrad is not only a quarter; not only does it bear important witness to the history and art, past and present, of this extraordinary city, but it is also, and above all a serene oasis of peace, a tranquil area of greenery a little off the beaten tourist track, and it is perhaps precisely for this reason that it possesses such quiet beauty and affords such enchanting views over the Vltava, the hills and the city itself.
